Pls excuse my lack of knowledge.bought my son a footswitch for his 212R. Leds do not lite up and it doesn't seem to work. 1) does it need a stereo cord since it is a two button switch? 2) where can I find a list of compatible footswitchs for this amp in case it ends up being DOA? 3) what powers the leds in the footswitch if it doesn't have a battery? Thanks in advance to any or all who can/will help me.Ok.it is part I have been told it should work with my amp.I think it is DEAD.But still no one has answered my question does it need a stereo 1/4 cord or will mono work??????????
Last edited by on Thu May 26, 2011 4:42 pm, edited 1 time in total. Wyspagier miecze i sandaly 2.
So I want to build a simple footswitch for my 212R. The original one has two switches: clean-drive and drive-more drive.
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Here's what I think the schematics are: So what I want to do is a single clean-drive footswitch. I've come up with this, by trial and error, and it works.
The only problem is that there's a half a second delay between the drive to clean transition Is there a simple way of getting rid of that lag please? Thanks in advance ETA: I simplified the circuit. Turns out I only need 1 diode. Still lags though. Look at the schematic. There are two switch circuits.
Each one has its own cap and resistor. You have D41, but left out C62, R117, R118. The drive/more-drive parts are C61 and R116.
Oh, I see, thanks Enzo. I thought this was the schematics for the original footswitch Also in my search before posting here I found a thread where someone said the footswitch circuit was missing from the 212R schematics.
OK, so I need a 2PDT switch. Is that a 10 Ohm and 100 Ohm resistors? Looks like it reads 1D (R117) and 10D (R118).
I'm guessing 1/4 watt is OK for those? And finally a 22F electrolytic cap? That can't be right. Excuse my ignorance. You don't need a 2PDT, note the extra set of contacts doesn't do anything. Fender just uses DPDT in all the switches, and ignores the unneeded contacts. The circuit on the schematic is the panel circuit, but if you duplicate it in a pedal, it will work, same as it does on a panel.
The real footswitch may well be different, it has LEDs lighting up. 22uf cap, that is what I see. If you try to eliminate the LEDs from that design, you risk losing function. The sensing circuit in the amp works on voltage levels. LEDs have a larger forward drop that regular diodes. So in the circuit you just posted of a footswitch, the left switch shorts a red LED.
Add in the plain diode, and the circuit sees a drop of either half volt or over a volt and a half. I don't know that this will cure your delay, but it might. I guess the test is this: when you do not use a footswitch, do the panel buttons have the delay? You don't need a 2PDT, note the extra set of contacts doesn't do anything. Fender just uses DPDT in all the switches, and ignores the unneeded contacts. The circuit on the schematic is the panel circuit, but if you duplicate it in a pedal, it will work, same as it does on a panel.
Fender Frontman 212r Manual
The real footswitch may well be different, it has LEDs lighting up. 22uf cap, that is what I see. If you try to eliminate the LEDs from that design, you risk losing function. The sensing circuit in the amp works on voltage levels. LEDs have a larger forward drop that regular diodes.
So in the circuit you just posted of a footswitch, the left switch shorts a red LED. Add in the plain diode, and the circuit sees a drop of either half volt or over a volt and a half. I don't know that this will cure your delay, but it might. I guess the test is this: when you do not use a footswitch, do the panel buttons have the delay?Any chance you can upload your schematics please? Mine looks like this: Just tried putting 3 zeners (1N4733 I think) in series, then shorting two of them.
Also tried the same thing with three 1N4007 diodes, and finally a 1N4007 in series with an LED. Same result: when shorting 2 diodes or the LED the amp stays in the drive channel, so that didn't work Using the buttons in the front panel of the amp produces no delay I would need to take the amp apart to check those voltages in the panel, but FWIW I get a voltage drop of 1.8V across the zener and 3.6V across the 1N4007 if I use that instead.
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